Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these tales and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
